Battambang Province

Battambang (Khmer: បាត់ដំបង, IPA: [ˌɓat ɗɑm ˈɓɑːŋ], "Loss of Staff") is a province of Cambodia located in the far northwest. Bordering provinces are Banteay Meanchey to the north, Pursat to the east and south, Siem Reap to the northeast, and Pailin to the west. The northern and southern extremes of the province's western boundaries form part of the international border with Thailand. In addition, Tonle Sap forms part of the northeastern boundary between Siem Reap and Pursat. Its capital and largest city is Battambang.

With a population of 1,036,523, it ranks as the fourth most populous province. In land area, Battambang is the fifth largest province of Cambodia. Battambang is one of the provinces included in the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve. The province's fertile rice fields have led to a mostly agricultural economy giving rise to the moniker "the Rice Bowl of Cambodia". The province features a range of cultures as well as natural resources. Seventy five percent of the area is jungles and mountains. The area has a tropical climate.

Etymology

Battambang literally means "Loss of Staff" in Khmer, referring to the local legend of Preah Bat Dambang Kranhoung. Stone inscriptions discovered from pre-Angkorian and Angkorian eras have as yet not mentioned any contemporary villages or districts called "Battambang" but according to the document Mohachun Khmer, "Srok Battambang" (Battambang district) was used during the Angkor and post-Angkor eras.

Historical sites

Wat Ek Phnum

Wat Ek Phnum (Khmer: វត្តឯកភ្នំ) is a partly collapsed 11th-century temple situated 11 km north of Battambang. The temple measures 52m by 49m and is surrounded by the remains of a laterite wall and an ancient baray (reservoir). A lintel depicting the Churning of the Ocean of Milk is situated above the east entrance to the central temple, the upper flanks of which hold some finely carved bas-reliefs. Construction of an oversized Buddha statue began by locals next to the temple has been stopped by the government because, they say, it mars the site’s historical provenance and "timeless beauty". Wat Ek Phnum is a very popular picnic and pilgrimage destination for Khmers at festival times.

Wat Banan

Banan Temple (Khmer: ភ្នំបាណន់), located some 25 km south of Battambang City, has been likened to a smaller version of the more imposing Angkor Wat. Built in the 10th century, it is very popular at weekends with Khmer families out on picnics.

Transportation

Battambang is accessible by road, and by boat via the Sangkea River. Both the airport and railway line are not in use. Buses make 5-6 hour journey from Phnom Penh and the 3-4 hour journey from Siem Reap almost hourly.

Get in

By road

National Highway 5 is paved and from Battambang runs southeast to Phnom Penh and northwest to Sisophon and Poipet. At Sisophon, National Highway 6 branches off to provide paved access to Siem Reap. In a car, Phnom Penh is around 4 hr away and Sisophon can be reached in just under 1 hr. By bus, Phnom Penh takes about 5-6 hr and cost about US$4. Siem Reap takes at least 3 hr and costs $5 ($6 at a local tour provider).

UPDATE: March 2014, buses are no longer allowed to drive into the city. The new bus station is about 3 km west of the city centre. A tutuk to the city centre will cost about $1. The major bus companys, e.g. Capitol, Sorya, are still running their offices in the city and offer a free minivan transfer to the bus station. Smaller companies will take you to their own offices where you are at the mercy of the two or so moto drivers hanging around (they'll insist the city is 8km. away).

Highway 57 from Battambang to Pailin was paved in 2010. Paramount Angkor Buses run twice daily from Battambang to Pailin (2 hr) for $4.

From Siem Reap there are buses at 7:30am, 10:30am and 13:30pm. The Capitol bus costs $4.50 if booking direct at their office in Siem Reap, plus they will pick you up from your accommodation for free if necessary.

By boat

One boat a day travels from Siem Reap (for Angkor) to Battambang, departing Siem Reap at 07:00. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boat threads its way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take between 4-12 hr, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.

During the dry season, when the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up truck.

By rail

Cambodia's defunct rail system is due to be regenerated by 2013. The line runs from Poipet on the Thai border through Sisophon and along the southern side of the Tonle Sap Lake to Battambang and Phnom Penh.

Get around

The city centre is quite compact and can be mostly explored by foot. Bicycles can be rented from most hotels or private companies for US$1-2 per day. Motorcycles can be rented from US$7 a day, or $5 for half a day. Some hotels rent bikes. The driving habits of locals are hazardous. Police may try to fine tourists on motobikes. If pulled over, stay calm, smile & take the key out of the ignition (to prevent the police trying to ransom it), and pay a small fine of US1-2. Arguing, waving your driving licence in their faces or otherwise upsetting the police is not recommended.

Tuk-tuks and motorbike drivers hang around popular tourist areas. As most of the interesting and useful destinations are quite close to each other, most rides should only cost around US$2-4. More distant trips like Phnom Sampouv (the 'killing caves') will cost around US$10, and can be combined with other destinations for a total of US$12-15.

Finding a driver with good English and local knowledge can be very useful. Tuk tuk driver Mr Saam Bo (092 95 15 15) knows the city & surrounds better than most. He is also a "fixer" able to get you best prices for local goods and services; and a tour guide, explaining the history of temples and other landmarks.

Small boats act as ferries (500 riel) and cross the river in front of the market.

Do

• Bicycle Tours : Bicycle tours with Butterfly Tours takes you on a half day or full day trip to various sites around Battambang. The tour is an initiative run by university students and priced reasonably - around $15 for a half day tour. The guides are students of English at the university level and provide an interesting local insight into life in Cambodia. Tel (855) 89297070 (booking@butterflytour.asia)

• Soksabike Tours: Soksabike is a social enterprise dedicated to sustainable tourism in Battambang. They offer half day and full day bike tours around the countryside where guests can learn about the everyday life and culture of Cambodia. The money for the tour is distributed to families in the community along the way and goes to pay the salaries of the guides, all local university students. They use high quality mountain bikes and include a coffee at one of the best cafes in town. Tel (+855)12542019 Email:info@soksabike.com

• Visit local industries by asking a tuk tuk driver to bring you around the local countryside. See the locals weaving silk material with old wooden looms, making rice paper for spring rolls, visit a crocodile farm and hold a baby crocodile, see and smell fish paste and fish sauce being made and in the dry season visit the mushroom farms. Only the crocodile farm charges $2 to visit while most of the others will have items for sale, they make very little money so consider buying something and bring small change as they will have none. This tour will only take a couple of hours so it is possible to hire the driver for the whole day for $20 and include other sights. Tuk tuk drivers at The Lux Guesthouse (see below) are familiar with this tour, ask in particular for Peter Tel 097 920 1988 bouset@rocketmail.com

• Rent a bicycle and cycle along the river. Upstream (south) or downstream (north). Both directions are flat and mostly paved, and it is possible to cycle along the river bank for a considerable distance, of up to 20 km each way. Also worth trying are the unpaved roads, they are easy to cycle along, have nearly no traffic and there plenty of children to say hello. A good address for renting regular and better bicycles is The Battambang BIKE rental and repair directions="60 street 2,5" info@thebattambangbike.com Tel +855 17 905 276

• The Bamboo Train: (The term "train" being used loosely - A large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine). A trip to the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. Currently it is regulated by Battambang's Tourist Police, with a standard rate of US$5 per person, minimum 2 people or US$10 for one person, with discounts for larger groups. It is worthwhile asking the driver to stop at scenic places. PLEASE NOTE: There have been plans to upgrade the tracks for the Poipet<->Pnomh Penh trains, which will mean the end of the Bamboo train. Currently (late September 2013) there is no set date, but it's apparently (still) right around the corner.

• Green Orange Kayak, Tel +855 77 204 121. Go on a beautiful Stung Sangker river voyage from the small village of Ksach Poy to Battambang, past riverside terraces and traditional bamboo houses. Get away from the dusty roads and learn first hand about traditional fishing and farming techniques. Half day trip, 13 km.US$12.  

Take a cooking class

Many restaurants around Battambang offer cooking classes at varying prices.

Nary Kitchen, About 200m down Street 111, which begins near the western end of Psar Nath, the main market., Tel 012 763 950 (get your tuk tuk guy to phone for directions if lost) (navuthk@yahoo.com). 8 am to 10 pm. Kitchen hygiene standards are exacting. Nary's Kitchen is famed for its cooking school out the back. (Don't get this place mixed up with THE Kitchen - another eatery.)

• Ch'Ngainh Ch'Ngainh, a homely and familial approach to cookery carried out in a family home. (sambath_9@yahoo.com) Tel +855 12 63 93 50. Daily courses priced at US$10.

• The Smoking Pot, daily courses with a minimum of two or more people, which can be a problem in low season. Priced at US$10.

Volunteering

Giving something back to the friendly and helpfull locals.

• GHV (Give Hope to the Vulnerable) NGO, Tel (855) 92 20 63 48,(855) 92 855 255(pichyan@hotmail.com,john4peace27@yahoo.com). Primary focus is providing free English lessons to very poor local children. GHV needs volunteers in these areas: Teaching (all subjects in English), Teaching English, Vocational Training, Sewing, Cooking. Comfortable, safe accommodation is available on site for $5 per night, close to Battambang city.  

• Children’s Action for Development(CAD). is a community-based non-government and non-profit organisation that provides Khmer and English literacy classes, life skills, child rights awareness, environmental awareness, job training, girl empowerment, nutrition, community education and family business programs to support poor, orphaned, vulnerable and disadvantaged rural children and families. Depending on current projects you are able to volunteer in a variety of ways.

• Khmer New Generation Organization (KNGO), Tel +855 092 79 05 97. is an NGO founded and run by Mr. Sun Saveth to aid the community of Bospo Village, Cambodia (reachable from Battambang by bike, moto, or tuk-tuk, about 5km from the city). KNGO is a nonprofit that also works on health, environment, and employment initiatives in the Bospo community. KNGO welcomes volunteers who are willing to come and teach or to work in the office assisting the Executive Director with various tasks such as social media outreach, project management, and writing. Volunteers can elect to stay in Bospo Village and experience the traditional Cambodian lifestyle for a small fee (currently $13/day including all meals). KNGO also offers tours to visitors, donations gladly accepted.

Source https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battambang_Province